Humbling Visit to Rural Thailand

This post was originally written in January 2024

While living in Thailand I have mostly spent my time in Bangkok, one of the largest cities in the world. And I've enjoyed my time here. I do not live a life of luxury, and I live a bit away from what seems to be the "main" areas for expats and western tourists. My room is under 5000 baht a month, excluding water and electricity, and it has no kitchen. Just a balcony with a sink, which I made into a makeshift kitchen. All in all, my room is, by regular Scandinavian standards, not that great. But I like it, for the most part.

This post isn't about Bangkok though, I am simply trying to paint a broader picture for comparison.

I recently went to a pretty rural area in Thailand, and stayed with a family in what seems to be a pretty standard lower income home, without being the "worst of the worst". And let me preface the rest by saying I do not judge this home. It is simply facts of life here. I have no opinions on this being good or bad, for me it is simply.. different. The house, while on the larger side, was nowhere near enclosed, and had cracks and "ventilation" everywhere. The main door was a sliding gate which could use a bit of repairing. The kitchen was, like most kitchens in traditional houses, outside the main house, but under cover. This specific kitchen was rather dark due to being surrounded by a slatted wall. Imagine a pallet-wall, and you get the general look of it. The stovetop was a small fireplace with a solid metal wok for cooking. No electricity or gas. There was running water, but no sink. So dishes were done in a couple of larger totes placed on the rock slab countertop. It was functional, and that is all that matters. I even made some food there myself!

I lucked out by the home having a actual toilet and not one of those squatting toilets on the ground. But no flushing at the press of a button. Flushing is done by pouring water into the toilet manually. There was a dedicated water-drum with water for this purpose. And bowl to pour the water with. The shower situation was similar, but the water was in a large concrete holding tank rather than a plastic drum. But the bowl for pouring water over yourself was the same kind. No hot water. So showers are done with by pouring ( cold ) water over yourself. Soaping up, and rinsing it off. I'll add that in this bathroom I have seen the largest cockroach I have seen in my entire life. At 1am in the morning. And even if it kept coming towards me while I was doing my business during the night, I kept my cool and did not wake up the entire neighbourhood with my terrified screams. Proud moment for me! Apparently there had been a snake in there a few hours before that got dispatched, but I was already sound asleep with a noise canceling headset on at that point, and did not hear any of that ruckus, at all.

"Bedrooms" are separated from the other living areas with furniture, blankets and curtains. And the bed I was given was on the floor. No aircon to be seen. Aircons would honestly be pretty pointless considering how the house had gaping holes under the roof and no isolation to speak of. But I did have a fan. And I did sleep really well this night, except for my trip to the bathroom. But it had been a long day the day before, so I'm honestly not sure if it was because it was truly comfortable, or just because I was exhausted.

And while their homes might be sub-par to Scandinavian standards, there is no end to the kindness of people. The talks, the laughter. And the need to feed their guests until they can't walk...

But, as a Scandinavian, having lived in Norway most of my life, I now appreciate my little room in Bangkok, with all its' flaws, just a little bit more. It should be mentioned that back in Norway my living-situation is rather untraditional, as I live in a older camper-trailer. So while my overall need for standard isn't really that high. I still appreciate the "little things" like a flushing toilet and a water-heater... And the aircon. I appreciate my aircon.

I did really enjoy the cows and buffalos walking past the house a few times a day too.